Crochet Motif Patterns (Japanese)

I've been slacking on blog posting and the promise of Japanese crochet motif patterns.  Hopefully these will make up for my neglect, enjoy and let me know what you plan to make with one or more of these..

Note: If you want to print these out it's best to right click on the image and download it to your hard drive and print it from there.

Note (last one lol) if you pray and believe God answers prayers, please scroll to bottom for an important prayer request, thank you, God bless you.

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On a personal note; I  met a woman on the bus tonight, her name is Denise.  We got to talking and she ended up telling me a horrible story about her 6 year old grand daughter, whom she was heading up to see at the hospital near my house here in Las Vegas.  Long story short, apparently the little girl was pushed out of a two-story window by her aunt who had her for the weekend - and the little girl sustained major brain trauma and a massive skull fracture.  She's recovering quickly from two surgeries but the perpetrator in this case needs to be brought to justice for the little girl's sake.  God sees it fit to heal her, (Thank you God!) let's give God a little nudge (or a big one!) to make sure the person, whomever it turns out to be, who did this to her won't be able to hurt her or any other child again.  Thank you for your prayers, God bless you and .  *The little girl's name is Jalynn.*  Thanks again, I know God will hear our prayers.

A So. Cal. Winter Scarf Pattern

Here's a pattern - really easy - for a scarf that can be worn almost all year round.  It's especially good for a southern California winter when you don't need a ton of warmth because - even though you're standing in the snow, the sun is shining and warm.  The scarf is light and airy but provides just enough warmth and style for a nice winter day.

Pattern: So Cal Winter Scarf

Pattern Note:  V-Stitch is (DC, ch 1, DC) all in the specified stitch


I ball bulky yarn.  I used Sensations Angel Hair available at Joann's.
Size S crochet hook

Row 1: ch 13, sc in second chain from hook and in each ch across  (12 sc)
Row 2: Turn,  ch 4, dc in first sc (beg V-stitch) *skip 2 sc, V-stitch in next sc  three times. Dc in last sc. ch 1 turn.

Row 3: sc in each dc and ch 1 space across.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until scarf is desired length.  I found 1 ball of angel hair was the perfect length scarf.

You can reserve the end of the ball and use the remaining yarn to make fringe for each end of your scarf.  Either way it looks great.

I used a partially used ball of angel hair to make a cowl, using the same pattern and just slip stitching the ends together to form a circular scarf.

This is more for looks than warmth, although it does keep the back of my neck warm.  ;-)

Crochet Pattern: Delicate Flower Motif

Delicate Flower Motif: Free Crochet Pattern
copyright 2012 by Cynthia J Luciene aka anitalite

Finished Size Larger Motif:  2 7/8"
Finished Size Smaller Motif:  1 1/4"

Materials:
size 10 thread in colors of your choice. I used pink for the color A and green for the color B.
size 6 steel crochet hook
large eyed needle for weaving in ends

Special Stitches:
TrTrCluster; (following ch 4) yo twice, insert hook into next st, yo, draw through st, (yo, draw through two loops) twice, *yo twice, insert hook into same stitch, yo, draw through stitch, (yo, draw through 2 loops on hook) twice, repeat from * once more, yo, draw through all 4 loops on hook. TrTrCluster made.
(It's easier than it sounds)
Tri-picot: (ch3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook)3 times, sl st into top loop and front post of sc just worked (previous to tri-picot) to close picot.

Instructions:

Using color A (pink), ch 7, join with sl st to form ring
Round 1: ch 1, 16 sc inside ring, join to first sc with sl st
Round 2:  ch 1, sc in same st; *ch 4, TrTrCluster in next st, ch 4, sc in next stitch; repeat from * 8 times; after last ch 4, sl st to beg sc to join.
Fasten off, weave in ends with large-eyed needle

Attach color B (green) at top of any petal with sc, (ch 7, sc in top of next petal) 8 times - at last ch 7, sl st into top of first sc to join.
Round 2: sl st into ch 7 loop, ch 1, (12 sc inside ch 7 loop) 8 times.
Round 3: sl st in next two sc (first two sc of next 12 sc group) ch 1, *sc in next 4 sc, tri-picot, sc in next 4 sc, ch 4, skip 4 sc (last 2 of same 12 sc group, first 2 of next 12 sc group); repeat from * around, ending with sl st into first sc made of this round.
Fasten off, weave in ends.

Space filler motif: (smaller motif - optional)

 With color A, ch 4, join with sl st to form ring.
Round 1: 8 sc inside ring, join with sl st
 Round 2: ch 1, sc in same as ch 1, *ch 2, dc-cluster in next st, ch 2, sc in next; repeat from * around, ending with sl st in first sc made.  Fasten off, weave in ends.
Attach color B to top of any petal with sc
Round 1: *ch 5, sc in next sc, ch 5, sc in top of next petal; repeat from * around (8 ch 5 loops); join last ch 5 to first sc with sl st
Round 2: sl st into next ch 5 loop, 6 sc in each ch 5 loop around, sl st to first sc to join
Fasten off, weave in ends.
Use this smaller motif to fill in spaces as you sew work together, if desired, depending on how you choose to put the larger motifs together.  It can be done in several ways, experiment and see which way you like best:

Crochet Pattern: Tuxedo Baby Bib

This is what I did today in a matter of about half an hour.  This is my boyfriend's niece's baby, what a cutie pie he is.  He makes a great model, far better than the stuffed pig I was going to use.  lol...

Crochet Pattern: Tuxedo Shirt Baby Bib
copyright 2012 by Cynthia J Luciene

Pattern Notes:  ch 3 at beginning of row counts as first dc for that row so you will skip making a dc in the very first stitch in the row (because the ch 3 is your first stitch) except in the first rows where you are increasing or working sc.

Body of bib:
Start with white Lily's Sugar And Cream 100% cotton yarn (worsted weight) or another cotton yarn of the same weight (category 4).

Using an H hook,  ch 17.

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each rem chain; turn (16 sc)

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc),  dc in same st as turning ch, dc in next 2 sc, FPDC in next sc, dc in next 2 sc, FPDC in next sc, dc in next 3 sc, FPDC in next sc, dc in next 2 sc, FPDC in next sc, dc in next 2 sc, 2 dc in last sc; turn

Row 3: Ch 3,  dc in same as turning ch, dc in each dc, BPDC in each FPDC, 2dc in top of turning ch 3; turn

Rows 4-5:  Follow stitch pattern for rows 2, 3 increasing by 1 dc at beginning and 1 dc at end of each row.  (DC in each DC, BPDC in each FPDC, FPDC in each BPDC.

Rows 6-13:   Work even as follows: ch 3 (counts as first dc) dc in each dc, BPDC in each FPDC; turn, ch 3, dc in each dc, FPDC in each BPDC.   Don't forget to make a DC in the top of the ch 3 turning ch which is counting as the first DC of the row.  This keeps the edges smooth instead of bumpy.
(Do not fasten off)

Shoulders:
(RS facing, shoulder on the right)
Rows 1, 2:   ch 3, dc in next 5 dc, turn 

Rows 3-5   ch 1, sc in each st across  - do not skip the first st as you did when ch 3 was a dc.  (6 sc in each row).  On last row of sc, do not turn but ch 52 for tie.  Fasten off.

(RS facing, this will be for shoulder on the left)
Rows 1, 2   (Attach to the top of the ch 3 from row 13 of body of bib with a tight sl st) ch 3 (counts as first dc) dc in next 5 dc, turn

Rows 3-5: ch 1, sc in EACH dc (do not skip first st), turn
(Do not fasten off)
Chain 52, fasten off, weave in all ends.

Edging:  Attach white to upper left shoulder of bib with a sc, sc evenly in ends of rows and in unused loops of the beginning ch 17, and up the other side in ends of rows.  This will give the bib a nice finished look around the edges.  Fasten off, weave in ends.

Bow Tie:
With black, ch 6
Making all of the following stitches inside the first ch (6th chain from hook):
3DTRC, ch 6, sl st, ch 6, 3 DTRC, ch 6, sl st.
Holding bow tie horizontally, sc around middle of tie to accentuate the "knot" a bit.  Leave ends long so you have plenty to tie the bow to the bib and weave in ends so there's no chance of bow coming off of bib and creating a choking hazard.

Buttons:
Using black and a yarn needle, make buttons down front of bib, underneath the bow with a satin stitch.  You can also use real buttons but I wouldn't recommend it because they are a potential choking hazard.

  You may sell anything you make using this pattern but you may not sell the pattern.  You can freely distribute the pattern by using a link back to this page only.  If you make and distribute hard copies of this pattern please be sure to include this blog Name and Web Address on the paper copies and print this page in it's entirety:  *Cynthia's Cynfully Spiffy Stuff  http://anitalite.blogspot.com*  Thank you and enjoy!
copyright 2012 by Cynthia J Luciene

Crochet Tip: Using Your Machine To Sew Fabric To Your Crochet Project

If you're like me you spend a lot of time trying to figure out an easier, faster way of doing things that bore you.  Don't get me wrong, I love to crochet and I love to sew - on the machine - hand sewing is not my favorite, or fastest thing to do.  It takes me what seems like forever to hand sew a lining in one of my bags.

I had a thought, tried it, and it worked just fine.  The thought came when I was hand sewing lining into a Fat Bottom Bag.  I thought, "There's GOT to be an easier and faster way to do this!  What would Mom do?"  That's when the thought came to me.  Mom would have used Freezer Paper and sew it on the machine!
The problem I had when trying to sew the lining with the machine before this was unfruitful.  It came out horrid because the pressure foot kept tugging and catching on the crochet work I did and the thread would all bunch up making one hundred stitches in the same exact place - the work would not move forward.
All I had to do was put freezer paper between the pressure foot and the crochet work and TA DA!  No more catching, bunching, and each stitch went exactly where it was supposed to, one right after the other in a neat line.  Yea.  Thanks Mom!

You'll need:
Freezer paper, or Parchment paper would work just the same
The fabric lining for your bag (or other crocheted item)
Your crocheted bag
A sewing machine

Several of you have asked about stitch length....

**Set your stitch length to one you would use for everyday, medium weight fabrics.**  I haven't tried a zig zag stitch yet, nor have I tried a top stitch setting (where the machine makes a triple stitch) but I'd like to try and I'll let you know how it turns out.

Just put the paper next to the teeth that push the material along (for which I cannot remember the real name of at this moment!  ack!) , under the presser foot.  The place your work, with the fabric lining pinned into place, on top of the freezer paper, underneath the presser foot as well.

As long as you don't go off the fabric, don't stray onto the crocheted part of your work, this trick should work just fine.

Once the lining is sewed in, just remove the paper, one side at a time, tearing it carefully away from the machine stitching.

(I don't have an example shot just yet of this action because I didn't think to share this with you until I was all done with this bag but next one, if need be, I'll post the photo of actually pulling the paper away from the stitches.  For now, this is what it looks like to pull the paper away from stitches I made in an hand towel. lol)

It's best to do one side and then the other to make sure you don't pull any stitches too hard and pull them out.  Any little bits of paper that may stay stuck in the stitches of your work can easily be pulled out with your fingernails or tweezers, but I don't find that very many little bits are stubborn this way, they mostly come out when you pull the paper away.

That's It!  I hope this made something easier and quicker for you.  I do like the results of hand sewing my linings in my bags but when it comes to being cost effective for a boutique sale or craft fair, machine sewing is the only way to fly.  We spend enough hours on our crocheting - my doctor figured out I get about 12 cents per hour for my crochet work at the prices I sell my items for.  Save time, save money, save your fingers, save yourself.  Use the machine whenever you can!  ;-D
If you found this post to be useful, please indicate by leaving a comment below.  Also, if you found it to be boring or dumb, please feel free to say so.  I like to share my secrets but don't want to if I find out everyone already knows everything!  lol
Do you have a question about crocheting or sewing that we can help answer for you?  Is there something that's been on your mind that you've always wondered about either of the two?  Let me know in the comment section below and I'll see what we can do to find the answer for you.  Maybe it's something you just discovered yourself, put that in the comments too and I'll create a post for and by my readers that shares tips like this one (without the photos and extreme explanations).  It would be nice to help each other by sharing our knowledge, don't you think?  It'll be kind of like Heloise's book of household tips except it'll be this blog and about crocheting.  We'll see.  Maybe we could get together a book like that - I don't believe there is one out there.  We'll see.
Gotta go!
Have a great day, God bless you!

Crochet Pattern: Snapdragon Bag

Free Crochet Pattern:

Snapdragon Bag
by Cynthia J Luciene aka anitalite copyright July 5, 2012
Please link to this page to distribute this pattern.  It may not be sold by you, however,  you may sell whatever you make using this pattern.

With worsted weight yarn and a "J" size hook, ch 32
Round 1:  sc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across, making a total of 5 sc in end ch, turn clockwise and working in the unused loops of beginning chs, sc in each ch across, work 4 sc in end ch and sl st to 1st sc to join. (38 sc total)
Round 2: ch 1, sc in each sc up to last two sc on same side.  2 sc in next-to-last and end sc (middle sc of 5 sc group from prev round) then still working in the round, sc in rem sc to last two.  2 sc in next-to-last and 2 sc in end sc as mentioned prev. sl st to 1st sc to join. (42 sc)
Rounds 3 and on:  Continue same as Round 2 until there are 80 sc all the way around once.
(Continue to work in the round for the following rows:)
Round 6:  ch 5, dc in same st as ch 3 (beg v-stitch made), *skip 2 st. 5 dc in next st (shell made), skip 2 st, v-stitch in next st; repeat from * around until last v-stitch then skip 2 st, shell in next, join to top of ch 3 with sl st to join.
Round 7:  sl st into next ch 2 space (middle of v-st), ch 3, 4 dc in same ch 2 sp (beg shell made), *v-stitch in middle dc of next shell, shell in next v-st - continue around from * until last shell then v-st in middle dc of next shell, join with sl st to top of beg ch 3 to join.
Rounds 8 and on:
Continue following stitch pattern in order Rounds 6 and 7 until bag is desired size.  (For the bag shown, 10 rounds of the snapdragon stitch pattern were used.)
Fasten off, weave in ends. 

For Handles As Shown:
(Of course you can use any handle you prefer, I thought fancy cording would also work well with this bag, I just didn't happen to have any on hand.)

Attach (with a sl st leaving a long - 10 " tail) worsted weight yarn to either side where you'd like the handle to be placed.  ch 3, dc in same stitch as ch 3, ch 2, 2 dc in SAME stitch. turn.
Row 2: sl st to ch 2 sp, ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc in same ch2 sp; turn.
Rows 3 and on:  repeat row 2 until desired length is achieved.  If you want the open shells in the handle to all face upward instead of having one side of the handle with shell st up and then going down on the opposite side, just make your handle half as long as you really want it and then fasten off.  Attach to opposite side in the manner stated at the beginning of handle instructions and follow the directions from there.  When both sides of your handle are even just slip st together the ends that meet in the middle.  I used a longer tail than I normally do so I'd have plenty of yarn to weave in, assuring the handle won't pull apart with weight inside the bag as it's being used.

 Closure: 
I simply attached the worsted weight yarn to the middle-est stitch of the bag and made a ch long enough to go around an old vintage button I had from one of my mother's old coats.  Then I back-tracked on the ch with sc all the way to where I attached it.  I did use a bit extra of a tail here too, to ensure it wouldn't unravel with use.  This tail was about 10" long as well.  (Probably a bit overkill but better safe than sorry, right?)

Hope the directions are okay.  If you have any questions please comment below and I'll get back to you asap.  Thanks and have a wonderful day and fun making this bag.  I found it to work up quickly and the snapdragon stitch gives it a very fancy look without  being a complicated stitch pattern.  I am very happy with the results, are you?

God bless you and yours.  God bless America

Crochet Pattern: Grandma Rupp's Drawstring Ditty Bag For Little Girls

My Dad's mother, Luella Rupp, born in Louisiana, moved to Los Angeles and died here at the age of 89, was a craftsy gal.  She did everything from making felt lady bug refrigerator magnets, parrot earrings out of tiny little colored shells, to crocheting rope necklaces and button bracelets with tiny beads and antique buttons.  She also crocheted other things, like this cute little drawstring bag that she gave me when I was verrrry young, about 5 years old.  That makes this little bag almost 50 years old.  Wow.  It's pre-antique.  Holy crap!  That makes ME, well, never mind!!!! 
Please note pattern correction, make 12 motifs, not 20.
Thank you Kathy.

This little bag is simple enough for any beginner to make so here ya go, the pattern below:

Start with worsted weight (4) of white (or any color for main color A) and an F hook:

BOTTOM:
ch 5, join to first ch with a slip stitch to form ring
Round 1: ch 3 (does not count as a dc) Make 10 dc inside ring, ch 3,
Round 2:  2 dc in each dc around, (20 dc) until you reach ch 3, then ch 3,
Round 3: (2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next) around until you reach the ch 3, then ch 3,
Round 4: (2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 2 dc) around until you reach the ch 3, then ch 3,
Round 5: (2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 3 dc) around until you reach the ch 3 and then join to top of ch 3 with a sl st.  Finish off, weave in ends.


MOTIFS FOR BODY:
(make 12)  <----note been="" br="" corrected="" has="" nbsp="" this="">

With color of your choice as long as it's a worsted weight (4) for "flower middle", and using "F" hook,
ch 5, join with sl st to form ring,
Round 1: (working inside ring:)  ch 3 (counts as first dc) 2dc, (ch 3, 3dc ) three times, ch 3, join to top of beg ch 3 with sl st.  Fasten off, weave in ends.

Attach green worsted weight (4) with sl st in any ch 3 space for "leaves" and still using "F" hook,
((ch 3 (counts as dc) 2dc, ch 3, 3dc )) all in same ch 3 space, ch 1,  **(3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) all in next ch 3 sp, ch 1,  repeat from **two more times.  attach to top of beg ch 3 with sl st.  Fasten off, weave in ends.

Attach Main color A (white) in a corner ch 3 space with a sl st:
ch 3 (counts as a dc), 2dc, ch 3, 3dc all in same ch 3 space.  ch 1, ** 3 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1, (3dc, ch 3, 3dc) all in same ch 3 space (corner), ch 1;  repeat from ** around, 3 dc in last ch 1 sp, ch 1, join to top of beg ch 3 with sl st.

Fasten off, weave in ends.

JOIN MOTIFS

Lay motifs in two rows of six.  Join motifs using main color, yarn needle, with whip stitch.  Using whip stitch, join motifs at ends to form a cynlinder.  Join bottom of bag to bottom row of motifs using whip stitch.
Weave in ends.

RUFFLE TOP

Join main color (white) to any stitch at top of bag.  Ch 3, 2 dc in same stitch, **dc in next 2 stitches, 3 dc in next stitch; repeat from ** around, join to top of beg ch 3 with sl st.  Fasten off, weave in ends.

DRAWSTRING

Using chain stitch, make two lengths of drawstring measuring 2 feet each.  Weave chained drawstring into top of bag with your hook or a large safety pin.  Tie ends of first drawstring together about three inches from ends and fray the ends to make a tassle effect. 
Do the same with the second drawstring so that when you pull on each drawstring, the bag gathers up and closes.

All done!  Isn't that just the cutest little ditty bag you've ever seen?  I have cherished mine through the years, having gotten it from Grandma Rupp when I was so young.  I used to carry it to church with me as a child.  Now I am going to pass it down to my grand daughter who is just the right age to have one of these.  It's a pretty little bag that can be passed down generation to generation that doesn't take a long time to put together.

Crochet Pattern: Beaded Scallop Earrings

Here's a free crochet pattern for my beaded scallop earrings.  It's been a while since I've made jewelry with thread and beads, this pattern is very easy and satisfying.  You can whip up a pair of these earrings in an hour or less!  I've gotten lots of compliments on them, I'm sure you will too.  They'd also make a great gift for a special friend, just because.

Beaded Scallop Earrings

by Cynthia J Luciene copyright April 2012
You may share this pattern freely using the link to this post, and you may sell anything you make using this pattern.  You may not, however, sell this pattern in any way or form.  Thank you for respecting the copyright and for giving credit where credit is due.

Materials:

Remnant of crochet thread size 10; two yards per earring should be plenty

7 small crystals or beads, 

1 larger bead or crystal (see photos)

1 pair of hoop earrings, approximately 1 1/8" in diameter

Size 6 steel crochet hook

Instructions 

(Note: for help "casting" onto hoop earring with a sc, please see tutorial HERE.  There is a photo tutorial at the bottom of the post at that link).

Before beginning, thread beads or crystals onto size 10 crochet thread in the following order, for each earring:

5 small, 1 large, 2 small  repeat this order for the second earring.  Now you have a total of 16 beads or crystals strung onto thread.

Begin: "Cast onto" hoop beginning with a slip stitch.  (see the tutorial mentioned in Note: above)

Row 1:  12 sc onto hoop;

Row 2: ch 1 turn, working into front loops only, sl st into first sc, Beaded HDC in next, sl st in next, HDC in next, dc, in next (beaded TRC, beaded picot, beaded TRC) all in next st, dc in next, HDC in next, sl st in next, beaded HDC in next, slip stitch in rem st.

Row 3: TURN, ch 3, beaded ch, ch 3, sc into next dc (just before beaded trc), ch 6, beaded ch, ch 6, sc into next dc (just after second beaded trc), ch 3, beaded ch, ch 3, sl st into last st of row 2.

Row 4: ch 1, turn; 4sc, ch 3 past bead, 4 sc on other side of bead (all in the ch 3-beaded ch-ch3 loop); in next ch sp: 2 sc, picot, 5 sc before next bead, ch 3 over bead, 5 sc, picot, 2 sc in ch sp after bead; 4 sc in ch sp before next bead, ch 3 over bead, 4 sc in ch sp after bead.  Join to Row 3 with sl st.

Fasten off weave in ends, repeat for second earring NOTE when making second earring, hold hoop in opposite direction you held your hoop the first time so you'll have one earring for each ear and not two right earrings two lefties - OR you can just pop the crystals or beads through to the other side, it's real easy to do that.

...On my jewelry tree, they fit right in.  ;-)


 Note:  My laptop got dropped ;-( and the screen broke so I'm not able to make a PDF file for this pattern as yet.  I ordered a laptop this morning and ought to be getting it very soon in which case I'll make a PDF file for easy printing, without all the gobbly-goop photos to soak up your printer ink.  ;-) 

Crochet Pattern: Favorite Beanie For A Lady

Of all the hats I've made I think I like this one the best.  It's fast and easy to make if you already know how to do the cross stitch.  If you don't know how to make a cross stitch there are several video tutorials on Youtube but you ought to be able to figure it out from the written directions below.

If you haven't already guessed, the cross stitch is one of my favorite stitches to add a lacy, textured effect to my projects.  It works well with ombre and solid yarn colors, and can be substituted for other stitches in almost any pattern you might be following.

For this beanie I used the cross stitch to give it a more lacy, lady-like effect and it looks marvelous on.  It can be worn as most beanies are,

or the bottom can be turned up to make a cuff so more of your hair shows and giving the beanie an entirely different look.

Good Beanie, Bad Photography, Really Bad Hair

Pattern For Favorite Beanie:
(Note:  beg ch 3 of each round counts as a dc)

Using an H hook and worsted weight yarn (I use Painted by Red Heart - it's a pleasantly soft yarn in beautiful colors that my photographs do not do justice)

ch 5, join with sl st to fifth ch from hook to form ring
Round 1:  ch 3, 11 dc inside ring, join w/ sl st to top of beg ch 3 (12 dc)
Round 2: ch 3, dc in same st as joining, 2 dc in each st around, join to top of beg ch 3 with sl st (24 dc)
Round 3: ch 3, dc in same st as joining, dc in next st, (2 dc in next st, dc in next st) repeat ( ) around, join to top of beg ch 3 with sl st (36 dc)
Round 4: ch 3, dc in same st as joining, dc in next 2 st, (2 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of next 2 st); repeat ( ) around, join with sl st to top of beg ch 3 (48 dc)
Round 5: ch 3, dc in same st as joining, dc in next 3 st, (2 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of next 3 st) repeat ( ) around, join to top of beg ch 3 w/ sl st (60 dc)
Round 6: ch 3, dc in same st as joining, dc in next 4 st, (2 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of next 4 st) repeat ( ) around, join to top of beg ch 3 w/ sl st (72 dc)
Round 7 - 10: ch 3, (dc in next st ) around, join to top of beg ch 3 w/ sl st (72 dc)
Round 11:  ch 3, (skip 2 st, tr in next, ch 1, tr in first skipped st)  repeat around, skipping last st and sl st into top of beg ch 3 to join.
Round 12: ch 3, dc in each tr and ch 1 sp around, sl st into top of beg ch 3 to join.
Round 13-16: repeat rounds 11-12 respectively

Round 17-18: ch 1, sc in each st around, join to first sc with sl st
Fasten off, weave in ends, enjoy!

Cross Stitch Up Close

When making the cross stitch, hold the stitches on the hook together as you're yo and drawing through, that way your stitches won't become super elongated when back tracking to the previous skipped stitches (the cross over stitch that makes the X).  Also, be careful about which tutorial videos you watch for this stitch.  Here's one that is for a dc cross stitch but it's done correctly with the same idea in mind.  With a dc cross stitch you use a dc instead of a tr and skip 1 stitch rather than 2.  I prefer the tr cross stitch, it's a much more dramatic effect and being the drama queen that I am, well, you get the idea.  heh, heh.

Crochet Pattern: Easy Beaded Snowflake Earrings

I have not been posting much lately due to depression and grief for the loss of my mother.  I don't think it's something I'll get over but may overcome some grief at some point.  Whether I do or not is not the point.  The point is I've not been crocheting a whole lot, nothing to mention anyway.  I do not have the energy or motivation it takes to do much of anything at all.

I wanted to do something for Christmas and these are all I could come up with so far.  I hope you enjoy them.

For Beaded Snowflake Earrings:

Materials: 
Size 10 crochet thread
Size 11 steel crochet hook
36 tiny beads, 2 small crystals
2 earring hooks (get at Joanne's) or tiny studs (with clear stone)

Follow directions from beginning to end twice.

Begin by stringing 18 tiny beads and then one crystal onto the thread
Chain 6, slide the crystal up to your hook, sl st into first ch (6th from hook) to form ring.
ch 1, sc inside ring.
** Ch 6, dc in 3rd ch from hook, work triple picot* (see instructions below), sl st into top loop and front post of previous dc, make dc in same ch as previous dc, ch 4, sc into ring**  work directions between ** and ** six times total.  Instead of working sc into ring for last repeat, sl st into first sc made to join.
Fasten off, weave in ends.
Spray heavily with fabric starch  and press with hot iron to stiffen and block; be careful not to leave iron on work too long to avoid burning starch or melting beads if you used plastic beads.
Attach earring hook (or stud) into middle of one triple picot.  Enjoy!

Triple picot:  *ch 1, slide bead up to hook, ch 2, sl st in third ch from hook*  work between * and * three times total.

Crochet Pattern: Hat Junk

 "I myself have 12 hats, and each one represents a different personality." Margaret Atwood

Here's a hat I crochet, and patterns for the "junk" I added to it.  I wrote the patterns after I made the "junk" so if there's anything wrong with the patterns let me know but they're simple enough that you could probably do them on your own but just in case, or to give you ideas to make your very own "junk", here's my patterns...

For starters I crocheted the hat for which the pattern can be found for free PDF download from the Coats & Clark website HERE as t.v. project #WR1065.
  The hat is fun and easy to make, takes no time at all.  They go great with Fat Bottom Bags, by the way, in case you were thinking of Christmas gifts for someone special...  I gave a few sets of hats and bags away last year for Christmas and everyone said they really loved them a lot.  ;-)

Patterns For Hat Junk:


1.  (Can't remember where I learned this pattern a long time ago, will post credits as soon as I figure it out.  Posting from memory, as I crochet it from memory.)


This is for the swirly leafy thingies on either side of the rest of the hat junk:


With size 10 thread and size 11 steel crochet hook, ch 28.  sc in second chain from hook and in each ch across to last ten chains, then 2 sc in every other ch to end.
Row 2: ch 4, (skip 1 sc, dc in next) across (work will have bend in the end you increased sc's)
Row 3: ch 1, (sc in next dc,  3dc in ch 1 sp, sc in next dc) across end with sc in last dc .  Fasten off, weave in ends but don't trim  - use them to sew onto hat.


2.  White Flower: ch 6, join to first ch with sl st.  ch 4, (dc, ch 1) X 11 inside ring, join to third ch of beg ch with sl st.  Round 2: ch 1, (sc, dc, sc) all in next ch 1 sp around, join to  first sc with sl st.  Round 3: ch 2, sc in BACK of first petal made (in Round 2) using two dc posts, ch 3, **sc in back posts of next dc (in next group), ch 3, repeat from ** around, ending with sl st into first sc made.  Round 4: sl st into first ch 3 sp, ch 1, **(sc, hdc, 3dc, hdc, sc) all in same ch 3 sp, repeat from ** around end with sl st in first sc made to join.  Fasten off, weave in ends.  Don't trim off center tail (beginning thread) so you can use it to sew flower onto hat.

That's it for now, I can't seem to bring myself to write anymore patterns right now, these were written before my mother passed away.  Another one I had written is for a hat band, posted following this post.  Thank you for your understanding, support, and encouragement in this very difficult time for me. 

cyndi

Crochet News: Flowery Snowflake For Mom; Free Pattern

Here's my first snowflake pattern, I made this for Mom with flowers, she loves flowers so much.  (And she's learning to love snowflakes, thank goodness!  ha ha)

Flowery Snowflake To Crochet
by Cynthia Luciene copyright October 2011


You may share the pattern but you may not sell it.  You may, however sell anything you make from this pattern.


Materials:  Size 11 steel crochet hook, size 10 (bedspread weight) cotton crochet thread


Instructions: ch 10, join with sl st to form ring
Round 1: ch 5 (counts as 1 dc plus 2 ch).  *dc inside ring, ch 2; repeat 10 times more, join with sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch 5.
Round 2: sl st into next ch 2 space, ch 1, *sc, ch 1, sc in same ch 2 space; repeat from * 11 more times, join to first sc with sl st.
Round 3: sl st into first ch 1 space, ch 12, * tr in next ch 1 sp, ch 7; repeat from * around to last tr then instead of ch 7: ch 3, tr into 4th ch of beg ch 12.
Round 4: ch 11 (counts as 1 tr + ch 7) ** all between () in next loop: (3 sc, ch 7, sl st into 6th ch from hook, *ch 5, sl st into same 6th ch; repeat from * three times = four petals made, ch 1, 3 sc ), ch 7, tr in next loop, ch 7; repeat from ** around until last sc worked and then instead of last ch 7: ch 3, tr into 4th ch of beg ch 11 to join.
Round 5: ch 9, sl st in 3rd ch from hook,
** ch 9 sl st in 8th ch from hook, ch 4, sl st in 3rd ch from hook, ch 11, sl st in 5th ch from hook, ch 8, sl st in 7th ch from hook, ch 6, sl st in 5th ch from hook, ch 8, sl st in 3rd ch from hook, ch 9, sl st in 8th ch from hook, ch 4, sl st in 3rd ch from hook, ch 3, tr in next loop,
ch 16, sl st in 4th ch from hook, ch 7 sl st in 4th ch, ch 4, sl st in same 4th ch,
ch 12, tr in next loop, ch 5 sl st in 3rd ch from hook; repeat from ** around until last ch 12 then instead of tr in next loop, sl st into 4th ch of beg ch 9 instead. 
Fasten off, weave in ends.


Soak in liquid fabric starch diluted with water 50 %.  Squeeze out excess water, lay snowflake flat on dry bath towel and roll up tight to squeeze out even more moisture.  
Place waxed paper on top of box top.
Using rust proof pins, carefully pin the outer points of snowflake to the furthest positions they will go without disfiguring them.  I liked to make every other one roundish, the others pointy for variety (see photo).  
Allow starch to dry completely before hanging.
Store in tissue rather than plastic baggies so your snowflake won't mold.
I use a piece of fishing line for hanging on the tree, sometimes I add a red ribbon to the top of the fishing line.  For hanging in a window and when I can't find my fishing line (MIKE!) I just hang it with those suction cup thingys you can get real cheaply this time of year at the Home Depot or Joanne's.  
Beads and crystals can be added if they aren't too heavy.  I would keep heavier crystals toward the center of the snowflake where it's stronger and use seed beads toward the perimeter of the snowflake so the points won't droop when it's hung on the tree.

Have fun!  

Crochet News: Working A Cross Stitch Pattern Into Your Granny Square

I guess I was extra bored with making squares to enlarge my boyfriend's afghan (which will never be large enough for him!) and I got off on a creative tangent.  I presented myself with a challenge and for once I ended up with something I am proud of.


Today I pulled out my dog-eared copy of Leisure Arts little books #75009, Beginner's Guide Crochet Stitches and Easy Projects. 

I love this book when I want to refer to an old school stitch pattern.  The cross stitch is my favorite, and having a half-worked square made for my boyfriend's afghan that I didn't really feel like finishing, I wondered if I could incorporate my favorite stitch into this square that was burning the palm of my hand and seemingly making my hook shiver at the very idea of hooking another stitch for it.


I assured my palms and hook we'd not finish the square as usual but try something new and different and, well, a bit wild (for us, anyway) and we'd forget the afghan for now.  The other two of us cheered and danced about while I reviewed the cross stitch instructions to be sure it would work with the number of stitches on each side of the square I had started.  One side proved to be in a multiple of three stitches so I went for it, not caring if the others would be in threes or not.  I would make it work or die.  I simply could not make another afghan square right now, and that was final.


Here's the result of our experiment, the three of us (my palm, the hook and I) are very pleased with it:

I showed a closeup for two reasons:

1. I finally remembered how to make the macro setting work on my digital camera so I'm showing off,
and
2. I wanted to show anyone whose never made or seen a cross stitch just how very cool it truly is, in detail, um, closeup.  ;-) 

A tutorial on how to incorporate the cross stitch into your granny square is HERE or can be found in PDF format which is more printer friendly HERE

Crochet Tutorial: Working The Cross Stitch Into Your Granny Square

 Tutorial For Using A Cross Stitch Pattern In Your Granny Square
Before beginning please read instructions all the way through.


For same instructions in a more printer friendly format, go HERE  (free PDF download)

The cross stitch works in sets of three stitches so your rows must be in multiples of three.  The sides of this square are 12 stitches across, counting the middle stitch in the corner group.
That is important for later.


Instructions for cross stitch: 
Skip two stitches, tr in next stitch, ch 1, tr in first skipped sc (skip 1 sc going to the right and tr in next stitch to the right)

Start by attaching the contrast yarn at any corner with a sl st. and ch 4 (counts as a dc + ch 1)
Work the cross stitch across the side to the end.
**Ch 1, dc in corner st (last worked st), ch 1, dc in same st, ch 1, work cross stitches across side of square to end, repeating from ** around until you reach last corner.  After making last cross stitch on last side of square, dc, ch 1, sl st into third ch of beg ch.  If using contrast yarn, fasten off, weave in ends.

Attach contrast with a sc in ch 1 of cross stitch. (If not using contrast, ch 1, sc in next st)  Sc in each tr , dc, and ch 1 spaces across all sides in all corners as well.  Fasten off, weave in ends.










The photo below shows what the corner group looks like when finished.

You can make a more defined corner, of course, if you add two sc to the corner st of the square, which I did not do because I didn't think of it till I saw this photo and noticed how round the corners were.  I would put the two extra sc in the first dc of that corner.

The cross stitch makes a great border for a granny square or a wash cloth or dish rag.  If you're more talented than I you can probably add granny square rows following the cross stitch rows.

Crochet Review: Snowflakes Galore!

I stumbled upon a great site for snowflake pattern lovers everywhere!  Oh boy!  heh heh!  If you look around for snowflake patterns at all you may have already found it but just in case let me share it with you.


Snowcatcher's Snowflake Directory has a multitude of free crochet snowflake patterns that are beautiful and unusual.  I get tired of snowflake patterns that look just like the snowflakes I saw everywhere else.  These snowflakes are very unique and absolutely gorgeous.


There's a pink ribbon snowflake I would like to make that incorporates the pink ribbon symbol (not just tying a pink ribbon around the flake) into the pattern.  There's three dimensional flakes of several types, and beautifully colored ones as well.  There's solid flakes, lacy flakes and in between flakes.  There's beaded flakes and flakes without beads that don't really need beads because they're so pretty without the beads.


I am so grateful to people like the Snowcatcher for offering such beautiful patterns to us!  My favorites on this page are the Third Red Mug Snowflake,  the Pink Ribbon Snowflake,
and the Century Snowflake.   Go check it out and share which ones you like best, if you've made any of the snowflakes on this site, etc.  I am just about to start the Third Red Mug Snowflake - as soon as I post this~


Here's another snowflake I made - not from Snowcatcher's site, it's from Trish Kristoffersen's booklet South Maid #1410 Winter Jewels  Snowflake 6. Winter Lace:

PLEASE don't pay attention to my dirty windows!  hee hee! 

Crochet News: Snowflakes In September

As I said in an earlier post, Christmas is not that far away and now is the time to start making gifts and decorations.  Really, if you're more efficient than I, you probably started your Christmas crocheting months ago.  I normally put everything off till the last minute but after what I went through last year, trying to finish all the gifts I made at the last minute, I am determined not to put myself and my family through that stress again.  When I get stressed out like that my whole family suffers.  Not nice, but true.

I made this snowflake last night and finished it up this morning while Mom ate breakfast.  It's a gloomy day outside so Mom is sad today.  The weather affects her greatly I noticed.  On a sunny day she's up and cheery and smiley.  On a gloomy day like today she's down and out and can't say why, it's just that way for her.  Hopefully the sun will come out later on but until then we're stuck in the house so crocheting keeps me busy while we are confined to the living room again.

I may write out the patten for it, depending on requests I get for the pattern.  It'll be easy and won't take as long as the pattern I wrote for the bikini top, lol.  This one is beaded but easy enough it can be finished in less than a day.  I think it's kinda cool with the flowery middle that's round, turning into a squarish snowflake.  I wonder if snowflakes are ever square?  I don't know why they wouldn't be but I'm sure I can look it up on Google.  It seems like Google has links for answers to any question under the sun.


Off to Google, gotta find out more about snowflakes before I make any more of them.  There must be some kind of "snowflake rules" or something that a person ought to follow when making snowflakes, don't you think?


It's a low energy, high coffee intake kind of day so sorry for my babbling and rambling.  I'll start working on the pattern for this snowflake now, forget Google.  I am the creator of my snowflakes so I can follow any snowflake making rules I want and can make up my own rules as I go along.


Yea, it's a weird day alright, and it affects me a lot, which is very apparent in my writings today.  yikes.  Time to put away the keyboard.


Hope your day is sunny and warm,
cynthia

Crochet News: My Favorite Washcloth Pattern

If you've been following any crochet news you probably know that I found a fabulous washcloth pattern HERE and liked the pattern so much I used it to make my boyfriend an afghan for Christmas last year.  I'm still adding to the afghan because he wants it "King size" and right now it's only a double-bed size.  Hmph! 


I take my crocheting, anything I'm working on, everywhere I go.  Usually it's something small that doesn't require a pattern so I don't loose anything important.  One day I grabbed a ball of Peaches And Cream 100% cotton (which is what I'm using for Mike's afghan) and threw it in a bag.  I thought I had the right hook (H hook) but discovered half way down the road in the car that I had a "J" hook instead.


Needing to crochet because Mike was driving and I can't stand being in the passenger seat, wondering if he saw the old lady stepping into the crosswalk, wondering if he is going to stop at the red light or go through it - not that he would, it's just the way he drives that makes me want to stomp on the invisible brake pedal on my side of the car.  It stresses me out to see someone else drive so I distract myself with crocheting the entire car ride.  It has saved the relationships I have with my boyfriend, my daughter, and anyone else I've been a passenger with in my car.  lol.  Really.

Since I had to crochet to save my sanity I went ahead and used the J hook to make the washcloth pattern I have made so many of for Mike's afghan.  I'm really glad I made the mistake of grabbing the wrong hook because the end result was not suitable for Mike's afghan but it produced a beautifully soft, supple washcloth that is a nice large size for body washing. 

I've made several washcloths to give as gifts with body wash and lotions, but I always felt they were kind of "hard" feeling.  Using the J hook resolved this problem and made the cloth a bit bigger, which is great too. 
Once again, this is where you can get the free pattern:  Spa Necessities on the Red Heart website. 
Have fun!
cynthia

Crochet News: Free Pattern; Toddler Ballet Beret

When I missed my great-niece's third birthday party I felt so sad I had to do something constructive and creative to make myself feel better and to give my little niece a handmade gift by Great Aunt Cyndi.  (Emphasize the GREAT!  j/k)

Since Emma wants to be a ballerina (along with my grand daughter Madison and about every other  toddler out there!) I decided to make her a pair of ballet leg warmers (pattern coming soon!) and this little beret to match the leg warmers.  Winter IS coming, it's just around the corner and that means CHRISTMAS! (Let me be the  first to be so mean as to remind you how close Christmas really is, especially if you hand make all your gifts.)

Here's the pattern for the beret, as I said a leg warmer pattern to match is on it's way.

Make It In A Day:
Crochet Toddler Ballet Beret
copyright 2011
by Cynthia J Luciene

PDF download for this pattern is here
*Note:  You don't have to download the file, it is possible to just open it to view using Adobe Acrobat Reader.   (Choose the "view" option when the download  window pops up)
The file is hosted by Mediafire which has turned out to be a very reliable and stable file host for me...  And it's free, you don't have to register to download my files.

Have fun, send photos of your completed Ballet Beret projects to me HERE 

I can't wait to see my little great-niece wearing her beret and leg warmers with the ballet dress and tutu my mother got her for her birthday this year!

Crochet News: Bikini Top Pattern Finally Here

Finally, now that summer is almost over, I finished writing the pattern for the lacy bikini top, what I call Booby Traps.  heh, heh.  I'm trying to think of what to call the bottoms?  Butt hatches?  Not.  I dunno.  Anyway, here's the pattern for free, for the yellow top by request.

As I said in an earlier post, I don't recommend wearing the top like this, with a tee shirt underneath but I'm too bashful to show anymore skin than you see here.  heh heh.


(pattern is also available free of charge as a PDF download on HERE)


Please link to this page when sharing this pattern, thank you.











Lacy Bikini Top Pattern
aka
Boobie Traps
crochet
copyright 2011 by Cynthia J Luciene
You may share this pattern but you may not sell it.
You can however, sell anything you make using this pattern.

Materials:
1 Ball (less than 1) 100 % cotton crochet thread size 3 (I like Aunt Lydia's Fashion Crochet or Royale Fashion Crochet Thread because it has a nice sheen)
Size F hook

NOTE: Work in U-shaped rows
Terms: sc ; single crochet
dc; double crochet
ch; chain
dc group; 2 dc worked in same stitch
st; stitch
rem; remaining
Instructions: (Make 2)
ch 14
Row 1: sc in 3rd ch from hook and in next 11 chs across. 3 sc in 12th ch (end), turning work 90 degrees,
sc in each of the unused loops from beginning ch 14. ch 1, turn. (25 sc total in u-shape)
Row 2: 1 sc in each of next 12 st, 3 sc in next (middle of 3sc group in end), sc in each 12 rem st. ch 1,
turn. (27 sc)
Row 3: sc in next 13 st, 3 sc in end sc; sc in rem 13 st (29 sc) ch 1, turn
Row 4: sc in next 14 st, 3 sc in end sc; sc in rem 14 st (31 sc) ch1, turn
Row 5: ch 2 more, dc in same st as ch 3 – dc group made - , (skip 1 st, 2 dc in next – dc group made - )
repeat 14 times, dc in last st, ch 3, turn.
Row 6: (2 dc between dc in next dc group) 7 times, 2 dc in next space between dc group just worked
and next 2 dc group, 2 dc between next 2 dc, (2 dc between dc of next dc group) 7 times, 2 dc between
last stitch and turning ch 3. Ch 3, turn.
Row 7: sc between first 2 dc, (ch 3, sc between dc of next dc group) repeat around: 17 ch 3 loops. Ch
1. turn.
Row 8: sc in first ch 3 loop, (ch 3, sc in next ch 3 loop) 17 times. Ch 3, turn.
Row 9: sc in first ch 3 loop, (ch 3, sc in next ch 3 loop) 16 times. Ch 1, turn.
Row 10: sc in first ch 3 loop, (ch 3, sc in next ch 3 loop) 16 times. Ch 1, turn. (16 ch 3 loops)
Row 11: 3 sc in first ch 3 loop and in each ch 3 loop around.
Turn work so you can make following row using ends of rows 1-11.
(This will be the bottom edge of cup)
Row 12: ch 3, work 29 dc evenly across the ends of rows 1-11. Turn.
Row 13: ch 4 -counts as 1 dc plus ch 1- skip 1 st, dc in next, (ch 1, skip 1 st, dc in next) across (14 dc
and ch 1 spaces) (This makes a “casing” for the tie that goes underneath the boobies.)
Row 14: ch 1, turn. Sc in first dc, sc in next ch1 space, (sc in next dc, sc in next ch1 space) 13 more
times across, sc in top of turning ch. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Ties
Measure your midriff and make a chain that long plus enough to make a secure bow tie in the middle of
your back. Everyone's trunks are different sizes, it's best to figure this part out yourself and to how
long you prefer the tie in back. I made mine quite long, which irritated me because the ends of the ties
tickled the small of my back. If they were too short the tie in back could come undone easily and then
your boobies would no longer be trapped! Yikes!
Once you've got a chain the length appropriate for you and before you weave the ends in, string one
end (single strand at end of your chain) into a yarn needle and use that to weave the chain length in and
out of the “casing” you made in Row 13.
Neck Ties:
Find the middle of Row 11 at the top of the cup (rounded side). This ought to be the space between 2
of the 3-sc groups.
Attach crochet thread with a slip stitch, ch 1, sc in same space and start chaining until you get a
satisfactory length to suit you.
Make a long enough chain that will reach from the top of the bikini cup, reach the middle of your neck,
and have enough to make a secure bow tie at nape of neck. I tried very hard to count how many chains
it took but was not able to keep track of my stitches, I am sorry. That's the way things are in my house,
lots of interruptions and needy humans and animals.
Repeat instructions above for other cup.
Weave in ends and you're done. Now you just have to be coordinated enough to get those ties tied
without help. Good luck. I found by putting the top on backwards, with the cups in back first, and
tying the bow for the middle of my back, turning the top around, placing the traps (cups) where they
should be, (and placing my boobies where they should be!) then I pulled the neck ties up and tied a
bow at the nape of my neck. Whew!
Enjoy your Boobie Traps! It is easy to make this bikini top larger (I”m SO jealous!) by adding rows
after row 11. Just keep working the chain 3 loops around in a u-shape as you'd been doing and you will
do fine. If you have questions about this pattern or any other I have posted on my blogsite, you can email me  HERE