Free Pattern: Faux Broomstick Lace Scarf

Faux Broomstick Lace Scarf Pattern

 copyright Oct. 1, 2014 Cynthia J Luciene

(you may share this pattern with a link back to this page.  You may not sell the pattern but, of course, you may sell anything you make using this pattern or stitch pattern.  Most of all, have fun!)

Size "S" Hook (I think it's the biggest one that is made, usually blue plastic as shown below:)

3.5 oz worsted weight 4 yarn (I love Debra Norville)

Stitches you will need to know:

single crochet (sc)

chain stitch  (ch)

3dc cluster stitch (see directions below*)

*y.o., insert hook into indicated stitch, y.o., draw through, y.o., draw thru 2 loops on hook; repeat from * 2 more times; y.o., draw thru all four loops on hook; 3dc cluster made

Begin by ch 15

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, and in each ch across; ch 2, turn  (14 sc)

Row 2:  *skip 1 sc, work 3dc cluster in next; repeat from * across; ch 1, turn  (7 - 3dc clusters)

Row 3:  work 3 sc in top of each 3dc cluster across; ch 2, turn;  (21 sc)

Row 4:  *skip 2 sc, work 3dc cluster in next; ending with 3dc cluster in last sc; ch 1, turn  (7 clusters)

Row 5 - ? :  Repeat rows 3 & 4 until scarf is desired length; use left over yarn (if there is any) to make fringe, if desired.

Even with the high level of pain in my hands while crocheting, I managed to make this in a half a day.  It would probably take anyone else only a few hours to make but I'm not sure.  Please let me know what you think, and how long it took you to make this scarf, if you make one.  Thanks so much, God's blessings to you and yours.

A So. Cal. Winter Scarf Pattern

Here's a pattern - really easy - for a scarf that can be worn almost all year round.  It's especially good for a southern California winter when you don't need a ton of warmth because - even though you're standing in the snow, the sun is shining and warm.  The scarf is light and airy but provides just enough warmth and style for a nice winter day.

Pattern: So Cal Winter Scarf

Pattern Note:  V-Stitch is (DC, ch 1, DC) all in the specified stitch


I ball bulky yarn.  I used Sensations Angel Hair available at Joann's.
Size S crochet hook

Row 1: ch 13, sc in second chain from hook and in each ch across  (12 sc)
Row 2: Turn,  ch 4, dc in first sc (beg V-stitch) *skip 2 sc, V-stitch in next sc  three times. Dc in last sc. ch 1 turn.

Row 3: sc in each dc and ch 1 space across.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until scarf is desired length.  I found 1 ball of angel hair was the perfect length scarf.

You can reserve the end of the ball and use the remaining yarn to make fringe for each end of your scarf.  Either way it looks great.

I used a partially used ball of angel hair to make a cowl, using the same pattern and just slip stitching the ends together to form a circular scarf.

This is more for looks than warmth, although it does keep the back of my neck warm.  ;-)

Crochet Pattern: Delicate Flower Motif

Delicate Flower Motif: Free Crochet Pattern
copyright 2012 by Cynthia J Luciene aka anitalite

Finished Size Larger Motif:  2 7/8"
Finished Size Smaller Motif:  1 1/4"

Materials:
size 10 thread in colors of your choice. I used pink for the color A and green for the color B.
size 6 steel crochet hook
large eyed needle for weaving in ends

Special Stitches:
TrTrCluster; (following ch 4) yo twice, insert hook into next st, yo, draw through st, (yo, draw through two loops) twice, *yo twice, insert hook into same stitch, yo, draw through stitch, (yo, draw through 2 loops on hook) twice, repeat from * once more, yo, draw through all 4 loops on hook. TrTrCluster made.
(It's easier than it sounds)
Tri-picot: (ch3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook)3 times, sl st into top loop and front post of sc just worked (previous to tri-picot) to close picot.

Instructions:

Using color A (pink), ch 7, join with sl st to form ring
Round 1: ch 1, 16 sc inside ring, join to first sc with sl st
Round 2:  ch 1, sc in same st; *ch 4, TrTrCluster in next st, ch 4, sc in next stitch; repeat from * 8 times; after last ch 4, sl st to beg sc to join.
Fasten off, weave in ends with large-eyed needle

Attach color B (green) at top of any petal with sc, (ch 7, sc in top of next petal) 8 times - at last ch 7, sl st into top of first sc to join.
Round 2: sl st into ch 7 loop, ch 1, (12 sc inside ch 7 loop) 8 times.
Round 3: sl st in next two sc (first two sc of next 12 sc group) ch 1, *sc in next 4 sc, tri-picot, sc in next 4 sc, ch 4, skip 4 sc (last 2 of same 12 sc group, first 2 of next 12 sc group); repeat from * around, ending with sl st into first sc made of this round.
Fasten off, weave in ends.

Space filler motif: (smaller motif - optional)

 With color A, ch 4, join with sl st to form ring.
Round 1: 8 sc inside ring, join with sl st
 Round 2: ch 1, sc in same as ch 1, *ch 2, dc-cluster in next st, ch 2, sc in next; repeat from * around, ending with sl st in first sc made.  Fasten off, weave in ends.
Attach color B to top of any petal with sc
Round 1: *ch 5, sc in next sc, ch 5, sc in top of next petal; repeat from * around (8 ch 5 loops); join last ch 5 to first sc with sl st
Round 2: sl st into next ch 5 loop, 6 sc in each ch 5 loop around, sl st to first sc to join
Fasten off, weave in ends.
Use this smaller motif to fill in spaces as you sew work together, if desired, depending on how you choose to put the larger motifs together.  It can be done in several ways, experiment and see which way you like best:

Crochet Pattern: Tuxedo Baby Bib

This is what I did today in a matter of about half an hour.  This is my boyfriend's niece's baby, what a cutie pie he is.  He makes a great model, far better than the stuffed pig I was going to use.  lol...

Crochet Pattern: Tuxedo Shirt Baby Bib
copyright 2012 by Cynthia J Luciene

Pattern Notes:  ch 3 at beginning of row counts as first dc for that row so you will skip making a dc in the very first stitch in the row (because the ch 3 is your first stitch) except in the first rows where you are increasing or working sc.

Body of bib:
Start with white Lily's Sugar And Cream 100% cotton yarn (worsted weight) or another cotton yarn of the same weight (category 4).

Using an H hook,  ch 17.

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each rem chain; turn (16 sc)

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc),  dc in same st as turning ch, dc in next 2 sc, FPDC in next sc, dc in next 2 sc, FPDC in next sc, dc in next 3 sc, FPDC in next sc, dc in next 2 sc, FPDC in next sc, dc in next 2 sc, 2 dc in last sc; turn

Row 3: Ch 3,  dc in same as turning ch, dc in each dc, BPDC in each FPDC, 2dc in top of turning ch 3; turn

Rows 4-5:  Follow stitch pattern for rows 2, 3 increasing by 1 dc at beginning and 1 dc at end of each row.  (DC in each DC, BPDC in each FPDC, FPDC in each BPDC.

Rows 6-13:   Work even as follows: ch 3 (counts as first dc) dc in each dc, BPDC in each FPDC; turn, ch 3, dc in each dc, FPDC in each BPDC.   Don't forget to make a DC in the top of the ch 3 turning ch which is counting as the first DC of the row.  This keeps the edges smooth instead of bumpy.
(Do not fasten off)

Shoulders:
(RS facing, shoulder on the right)
Rows 1, 2:   ch 3, dc in next 5 dc, turn 

Rows 3-5   ch 1, sc in each st across  - do not skip the first st as you did when ch 3 was a dc.  (6 sc in each row).  On last row of sc, do not turn but ch 52 for tie.  Fasten off.

(RS facing, this will be for shoulder on the left)
Rows 1, 2   (Attach to the top of the ch 3 from row 13 of body of bib with a tight sl st) ch 3 (counts as first dc) dc in next 5 dc, turn

Rows 3-5: ch 1, sc in EACH dc (do not skip first st), turn
(Do not fasten off)
Chain 52, fasten off, weave in all ends.

Edging:  Attach white to upper left shoulder of bib with a sc, sc evenly in ends of rows and in unused loops of the beginning ch 17, and up the other side in ends of rows.  This will give the bib a nice finished look around the edges.  Fasten off, weave in ends.

Bow Tie:
With black, ch 6
Making all of the following stitches inside the first ch (6th chain from hook):
3DTRC, ch 6, sl st, ch 6, 3 DTRC, ch 6, sl st.
Holding bow tie horizontally, sc around middle of tie to accentuate the "knot" a bit.  Leave ends long so you have plenty to tie the bow to the bib and weave in ends so there's no chance of bow coming off of bib and creating a choking hazard.

Buttons:
Using black and a yarn needle, make buttons down front of bib, underneath the bow with a satin stitch.  You can also use real buttons but I wouldn't recommend it because they are a potential choking hazard.

  You may sell anything you make using this pattern but you may not sell the pattern.  You can freely distribute the pattern by using a link back to this page only.  If you make and distribute hard copies of this pattern please be sure to include this blog Name and Web Address on the paper copies and print this page in it's entirety:  *Cynthia's Cynfully Spiffy Stuff  http://anitalite.blogspot.com*  Thank you and enjoy!
copyright 2012 by Cynthia J Luciene

Crochet Tip: Using Your Machine To Sew Fabric To Your Crochet Project

If you're like me you spend a lot of time trying to figure out an easier, faster way of doing things that bore you.  Don't get me wrong, I love to crochet and I love to sew - on the machine - hand sewing is not my favorite, or fastest thing to do.  It takes me what seems like forever to hand sew a lining in one of my bags.

I had a thought, tried it, and it worked just fine.  The thought came when I was hand sewing lining into a Fat Bottom Bag.  I thought, "There's GOT to be an easier and faster way to do this!  What would Mom do?"  That's when the thought came to me.  Mom would have used Freezer Paper and sew it on the machine!
The problem I had when trying to sew the lining with the machine before this was unfruitful.  It came out horrid because the pressure foot kept tugging and catching on the crochet work I did and the thread would all bunch up making one hundred stitches in the same exact place - the work would not move forward.
All I had to do was put freezer paper between the pressure foot and the crochet work and TA DA!  No more catching, bunching, and each stitch went exactly where it was supposed to, one right after the other in a neat line.  Yea.  Thanks Mom!

You'll need:
Freezer paper, or Parchment paper would work just the same
The fabric lining for your bag (or other crocheted item)
Your crocheted bag
A sewing machine

Several of you have asked about stitch length....

**Set your stitch length to one you would use for everyday, medium weight fabrics.**  I haven't tried a zig zag stitch yet, nor have I tried a top stitch setting (where the machine makes a triple stitch) but I'd like to try and I'll let you know how it turns out.

Just put the paper next to the teeth that push the material along (for which I cannot remember the real name of at this moment!  ack!) , under the presser foot.  The place your work, with the fabric lining pinned into place, on top of the freezer paper, underneath the presser foot as well.

As long as you don't go off the fabric, don't stray onto the crocheted part of your work, this trick should work just fine.

Once the lining is sewed in, just remove the paper, one side at a time, tearing it carefully away from the machine stitching.

(I don't have an example shot just yet of this action because I didn't think to share this with you until I was all done with this bag but next one, if need be, I'll post the photo of actually pulling the paper away from the stitches.  For now, this is what it looks like to pull the paper away from stitches I made in an hand towel. lol)

It's best to do one side and then the other to make sure you don't pull any stitches too hard and pull them out.  Any little bits of paper that may stay stuck in the stitches of your work can easily be pulled out with your fingernails or tweezers, but I don't find that very many little bits are stubborn this way, they mostly come out when you pull the paper away.

That's It!  I hope this made something easier and quicker for you.  I do like the results of hand sewing my linings in my bags but when it comes to being cost effective for a boutique sale or craft fair, machine sewing is the only way to fly.  We spend enough hours on our crocheting - my doctor figured out I get about 12 cents per hour for my crochet work at the prices I sell my items for.  Save time, save money, save your fingers, save yourself.  Use the machine whenever you can!  ;-D
If you found this post to be useful, please indicate by leaving a comment below.  Also, if you found it to be boring or dumb, please feel free to say so.  I like to share my secrets but don't want to if I find out everyone already knows everything!  lol
Do you have a question about crocheting or sewing that we can help answer for you?  Is there something that's been on your mind that you've always wondered about either of the two?  Let me know in the comment section below and I'll see what we can do to find the answer for you.  Maybe it's something you just discovered yourself, put that in the comments too and I'll create a post for and by my readers that shares tips like this one (without the photos and extreme explanations).  It would be nice to help each other by sharing our knowledge, don't you think?  It'll be kind of like Heloise's book of household tips except it'll be this blog and about crocheting.  We'll see.  Maybe we could get together a book like that - I don't believe there is one out there.  We'll see.
Gotta go!
Have a great day, God bless you!

Crochet Pattern: Snapdragon Bag

Free Crochet Pattern:

Snapdragon Bag
by Cynthia J Luciene aka anitalite copyright July 5, 2012
Please link to this page to distribute this pattern.  It may not be sold by you, however,  you may sell whatever you make using this pattern.

With worsted weight yarn and a "J" size hook, ch 32
Round 1:  sc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across, making a total of 5 sc in end ch, turn clockwise and working in the unused loops of beginning chs, sc in each ch across, work 4 sc in end ch and sl st to 1st sc to join. (38 sc total)
Round 2: ch 1, sc in each sc up to last two sc on same side.  2 sc in next-to-last and end sc (middle sc of 5 sc group from prev round) then still working in the round, sc in rem sc to last two.  2 sc in next-to-last and 2 sc in end sc as mentioned prev. sl st to 1st sc to join. (42 sc)
Rounds 3 and on:  Continue same as Round 2 until there are 80 sc all the way around once.
(Continue to work in the round for the following rows:)
Round 6:  ch 5, dc in same st as ch 3 (beg v-stitch made), *skip 2 st. 5 dc in next st (shell made), skip 2 st, v-stitch in next st; repeat from * around until last v-stitch then skip 2 st, shell in next, join to top of ch 3 with sl st to join.
Round 7:  sl st into next ch 2 space (middle of v-st), ch 3, 4 dc in same ch 2 sp (beg shell made), *v-stitch in middle dc of next shell, shell in next v-st - continue around from * until last shell then v-st in middle dc of next shell, join with sl st to top of beg ch 3 to join.
Rounds 8 and on:
Continue following stitch pattern in order Rounds 6 and 7 until bag is desired size.  (For the bag shown, 10 rounds of the snapdragon stitch pattern were used.)
Fasten off, weave in ends. 

For Handles As Shown:
(Of course you can use any handle you prefer, I thought fancy cording would also work well with this bag, I just didn't happen to have any on hand.)

Attach (with a sl st leaving a long - 10 " tail) worsted weight yarn to either side where you'd like the handle to be placed.  ch 3, dc in same stitch as ch 3, ch 2, 2 dc in SAME stitch. turn.
Row 2: sl st to ch 2 sp, ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc in same ch2 sp; turn.
Rows 3 and on:  repeat row 2 until desired length is achieved.  If you want the open shells in the handle to all face upward instead of having one side of the handle with shell st up and then going down on the opposite side, just make your handle half as long as you really want it and then fasten off.  Attach to opposite side in the manner stated at the beginning of handle instructions and follow the directions from there.  When both sides of your handle are even just slip st together the ends that meet in the middle.  I used a longer tail than I normally do so I'd have plenty of yarn to weave in, assuring the handle won't pull apart with weight inside the bag as it's being used.

 Closure: 
I simply attached the worsted weight yarn to the middle-est stitch of the bag and made a ch long enough to go around an old vintage button I had from one of my mother's old coats.  Then I back-tracked on the ch with sc all the way to where I attached it.  I did use a bit extra of a tail here too, to ensure it wouldn't unravel with use.  This tail was about 10" long as well.  (Probably a bit overkill but better safe than sorry, right?)

Hope the directions are okay.  If you have any questions please comment below and I'll get back to you asap.  Thanks and have a wonderful day and fun making this bag.  I found it to work up quickly and the snapdragon stitch gives it a very fancy look without  being a complicated stitch pattern.  I am very happy with the results, are you?

God bless you and yours.  God bless America

On The Crochet Menu: Another FBB

What's on the crochet menu today?  Another FBB (Fat Bottom Bag), one I hope to sell very soon.  Many ladies are presenting a great interest in the bags since my friend - who goes to the hospital for treatments for Lupus - brought her FBB I made her to the hospital and the nurses there saw it and wanted to see more of them.  The nurses told my friend they would like to have a FBB like hers, proving my point in my previous post that word of mouth is the best method of advertising.

Here's the latest addition to my FBB inventory (below) and following this post is a quick (and easy) photo tutorial on how I made the handles for it.  Let me know what you think in the comments below, your comments are always welcome!

I made the flowers and leaves using size 3 crochet thread and a size 3 steel crochet hook.  I tend to like the thread flowers better than worsted weight but it really depends on each individual bag that I make.  Each one has a personality of its own.

By luck the lining I chose matches the thread I used for the flowers perfectly.  The purples and blues are really pretty against the black body of the bag.  I found this material at Jo Ann's in the designer area of the fabric section.








I was disappointed in the handles at Jo Ann's that day and was shocked at the prices of them.  They've gone up quite a bit and my little cheapy stand by handle - the unfinished rattan round handles  that were $2.99 are no longer available there.  Only the finished rattan handles were there and priced at $5.99!  I wasn't about to pay that much for a rattan handle so I decided to follow my boyfriend's suggestion, to look for cords or braids in the trims section and make my own handles.  Below is what I did to make a 3/8" cording work as handles for this bag.  If anyone has any better ideas about how to make handles, please do comment below!  Anyway, here's what I did:

 Before cutting your twisted cording wrap scotch tape around the ends and cut in the middle of the tape so both ends of the cut are held in place and will not ravel.  I only purchased one yard of this cording for the handles at a couple bucks a yard.   I cut the cording in half and used half a yard for each handle.

To ensure the cording won't ravel, apply a good amount of glue to all ends and allow to dry well on waxed paper.
This will also make a barrier so when you sew the ends together the stitches won't pull through and come apart.

In a zig-zag pattern, using heavy duty thread and needle, sew the ends together.  Go all the way around the cording with your stitches so it doesn't wiggle with a gap or bend funny.  You won't be able to get the needle through the glue you applied earlier so just stitch on the other side of the glue barrier.  I enlarged the photo so you'd be able to see how I made the stitches for this.  It doesn't look very pretty but it serves a good purpose and it won't be seen when the bag is put altogether.

To make sure the corded handles didn't slip around while being used, exposing the ends stitched together, I tacked the stitched part of the handles to the bag's handle flaps smack dab in the middle of the flap. 

Now all that's left is to secure your handle flaps over the handles and you're done.



Please leave feedback in the comments below.  I appreciate your views and suggestions and conversation more than you know.  Thanks for stopping by, I hope I at least inspired you to make something beautiful today.

God bless you and God bless America - One Nation Under God... United we stand, divided we fall.
Ronald Regan said, "If we forget we are a nation under God, we'll be a nation gone under".

Crochet Pattern: Beaded Scallop Earrings

Here's a free crochet pattern for my beaded scallop earrings.  It's been a while since I've made jewelry with thread and beads, this pattern is very easy and satisfying.  You can whip up a pair of these earrings in an hour or less!  I've gotten lots of compliments on them, I'm sure you will too.  They'd also make a great gift for a special friend, just because.

Beaded Scallop Earrings

by Cynthia J Luciene copyright April 2012
You may share this pattern freely using the link to this post, and you may sell anything you make using this pattern.  You may not, however, sell this pattern in any way or form.  Thank you for respecting the copyright and for giving credit where credit is due.

Materials:

Remnant of crochet thread size 10; two yards per earring should be plenty

7 small crystals or beads, 

1 larger bead or crystal (see photos)

1 pair of hoop earrings, approximately 1 1/8" in diameter

Size 6 steel crochet hook

Instructions 

(Note: for help "casting" onto hoop earring with a sc, please see tutorial HERE.  There is a photo tutorial at the bottom of the post at that link).

Before beginning, thread beads or crystals onto size 10 crochet thread in the following order, for each earring:

5 small, 1 large, 2 small  repeat this order for the second earring.  Now you have a total of 16 beads or crystals strung onto thread.

Begin: "Cast onto" hoop beginning with a slip stitch.  (see the tutorial mentioned in Note: above)

Row 1:  12 sc onto hoop;

Row 2: ch 1 turn, working into front loops only, sl st into first sc, Beaded HDC in next, sl st in next, HDC in next, dc, in next (beaded TRC, beaded picot, beaded TRC) all in next st, dc in next, HDC in next, sl st in next, beaded HDC in next, slip stitch in rem st.

Row 3: TURN, ch 3, beaded ch, ch 3, sc into next dc (just before beaded trc), ch 6, beaded ch, ch 6, sc into next dc (just after second beaded trc), ch 3, beaded ch, ch 3, sl st into last st of row 2.

Row 4: ch 1, turn; 4sc, ch 3 past bead, 4 sc on other side of bead (all in the ch 3-beaded ch-ch3 loop); in next ch sp: 2 sc, picot, 5 sc before next bead, ch 3 over bead, 5 sc, picot, 2 sc in ch sp after bead; 4 sc in ch sp before next bead, ch 3 over bead, 4 sc in ch sp after bead.  Join to Row 3 with sl st.

Fasten off weave in ends, repeat for second earring NOTE when making second earring, hold hoop in opposite direction you held your hoop the first time so you'll have one earring for each ear and not two right earrings two lefties - OR you can just pop the crystals or beads through to the other side, it's real easy to do that.

...On my jewelry tree, they fit right in.  ;-)


 Note:  My laptop got dropped ;-( and the screen broke so I'm not able to make a PDF file for this pattern as yet.  I ordered a laptop this morning and ought to be getting it very soon in which case I'll make a PDF file for easy printing, without all the gobbly-goop photos to soak up your printer ink.  ;-) 

Crochet Update: Mandala Throw: Finished!

For the past couple of weeks I've been working on the Blue Mandala Throw by Sharon Mullett Bowlsby as found in Crochet World magazine June 2011 issue.  (The link will open in a new window and is the link that will allow you to purchase the back issue of Crochet World magazine for $5.99).  The issue has many wonderful patterns in it so the purchase price of $5.99 is well worth the price and the link has a PDF download option so you can get your issue immediately upon purchase which I find not only convenient but necessary!  I just hate having to wait for something to come in the mail, don't you?  lol

Here's a photo of what the pattern's throw looks like:

I enjoyed working this pattern because I didn't have to keep referring back to the pattern for each round - once the initial round was done I could do the following rounds in the set on my own until the next set of rounds came due, so rounds 5-25 were done on my own (without the pattern in my hand!) and then rounds 28-50 the same way, without the pattern right in front of me.  It made the project go along real easily and also easy to carry around with me wherever I went with it.  Being a throw, not as big as an afghan, made it okay to bring along as well.

Here's some shots of my project from beginning to end.  I used Premier Everyday Soft Worsted for mine because of it's anti-piling, softness, and beautiful color combinations.  My little Chihuahua Baby wouldn't get off the throw for me to take photos so he's in some of them, the little stinker.  lol.

Why this is sideways I have no freaking clue!  lol

  

 

This color yarn is called Mint Chocolate Chip, YUM!  It's got lovely pink, brown, and greens in it.

Moving right along, rounds 5-25 coming along nicely.  It started to bunch up though, like there were too many stitches in the rounds but it all worked out nicely in the end so if you work the pattern just keep on keeping on in spite of the bunching.  You'll like the results in the end.

Just beginning rounds 28-50 now, the bunching has started to "mellow out" and the star is coming together.  I love the way this ombre yarn colors are patterned out in this project.  Seeing it in person really is best though, the camera (the camera operator!) doesn't do it justice. 

Just a bird's eye view of the same stage in the pattern as the one above...

Finally, my finished Mandala throw!  I love it, and can't wait to give it to my sister tomorrow.  Green is her favorite color and this has plenty of green in it as well as my favorite color, pink, in a subtle way as if to say we are always together.

The border was a bit tricky at first but after I figured it out and corrected a few mistakes in the written pattern, I didn't have any trouble with it.  It's an unusual border that I would like to add to another afghan or even washcloth of my  own someday.  For pattern correction, please see my notes on Ravelry.com for this project.  (link will take you to my project page on Ravelry)

Well, that's it!  What do you think?  It's the first afghan/throw that didn't take me more than a year to finish!  lol.  (Note my son's afghan took me 12 years to finish!!! lol)

Okaaaaayyy!!! One more photo of my throw and my ham bone puppy dog!  Ha ha ha.  Couldn't help myself.

Crochet Pattern: Favorite Beanie For A Lady

Of all the hats I've made I think I like this one the best.  It's fast and easy to make if you already know how to do the cross stitch.  If you don't know how to make a cross stitch there are several video tutorials on Youtube but you ought to be able to figure it out from the written directions below.

If you haven't already guessed, the cross stitch is one of my favorite stitches to add a lacy, textured effect to my projects.  It works well with ombre and solid yarn colors, and can be substituted for other stitches in almost any pattern you might be following.

For this beanie I used the cross stitch to give it a more lacy, lady-like effect and it looks marvelous on.  It can be worn as most beanies are,

or the bottom can be turned up to make a cuff so more of your hair shows and giving the beanie an entirely different look.

Good Beanie, Bad Photography, Really Bad Hair

Pattern For Favorite Beanie:
(Note:  beg ch 3 of each round counts as a dc)

Using an H hook and worsted weight yarn (I use Painted by Red Heart - it's a pleasantly soft yarn in beautiful colors that my photographs do not do justice)

ch 5, join with sl st to fifth ch from hook to form ring
Round 1:  ch 3, 11 dc inside ring, join w/ sl st to top of beg ch 3 (12 dc)
Round 2: ch 3, dc in same st as joining, 2 dc in each st around, join to top of beg ch 3 with sl st (24 dc)
Round 3: ch 3, dc in same st as joining, dc in next st, (2 dc in next st, dc in next st) repeat ( ) around, join to top of beg ch 3 with sl st (36 dc)
Round 4: ch 3, dc in same st as joining, dc in next 2 st, (2 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of next 2 st); repeat ( ) around, join with sl st to top of beg ch 3 (48 dc)
Round 5: ch 3, dc in same st as joining, dc in next 3 st, (2 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of next 3 st) repeat ( ) around, join to top of beg ch 3 w/ sl st (60 dc)
Round 6: ch 3, dc in same st as joining, dc in next 4 st, (2 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of next 4 st) repeat ( ) around, join to top of beg ch 3 w/ sl st (72 dc)
Round 7 - 10: ch 3, (dc in next st ) around, join to top of beg ch 3 w/ sl st (72 dc)
Round 11:  ch 3, (skip 2 st, tr in next, ch 1, tr in first skipped st)  repeat around, skipping last st and sl st into top of beg ch 3 to join.
Round 12: ch 3, dc in each tr and ch 1 sp around, sl st into top of beg ch 3 to join.
Round 13-16: repeat rounds 11-12 respectively

Round 17-18: ch 1, sc in each st around, join to first sc with sl st
Fasten off, weave in ends, enjoy!

Cross Stitch Up Close

When making the cross stitch, hold the stitches on the hook together as you're yo and drawing through, that way your stitches won't become super elongated when back tracking to the previous skipped stitches (the cross over stitch that makes the X).  Also, be careful about which tutorial videos you watch for this stitch.  Here's one that is for a dc cross stitch but it's done correctly with the same idea in mind.  With a dc cross stitch you use a dc instead of a tr and skip 1 stitch rather than 2.  I prefer the tr cross stitch, it's a much more dramatic effect and being the drama queen that I am, well, you get the idea.  heh, heh.

Crochet Pattern: Easy Elegant Hat Band

"A hat is a flag, a shield, a bit of armor, and the badge of femininity. A hat is the difference between wearing clothing and wearing a costume; it's the difference between being dressed and being dressed up; it's the difference between looking adequate and looking your best. A hat is to be stylish in, to glow under, to flirt beneath, to make all others seem jealous over, and to make all men feel masculine about. A piece of magic is a hat." (Martha Sliter)

I made another hat using this free pattern found on the Coats and Clark website: Decorated Crochet Hat & Scarf Project #WR1065 the pattern is a free PDF download direct from their site and suitable for crocheters of all skill levels.

I'm always looking for something to make my projects unusual and fancy as well as feminine and I think this hat band fulfills those requirements just fine.  I added the beads (purchased at Walmart, I'm pretty sure) after the band was sewn on the hat but the beads aren't necessary because the band dresses up the hat nicely on it's own, especially if you add a crocheted flower or three.  ;-)

 I started by measuring the circumference of the hat where you want the band to lay and start chaining your thread (I used a size three thread and an 11 steel hook) ending up with a chain that is in multiples of 6 plus 1 ch for turning.  (The stitch patten requires 6 stitches).  It's better to have the band be a bit too long than too short and make your hat bunch up.  You can always overlap the band where it meets, if necessary.  You'll end up making over 220 chains to begin, depending on the circumference of your hat.

For Row 1:  sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn
Row 2:  ch 3, **skip 2 sc, (dc, ch 5, dc) all in next sc, sk  2 sc, sc in next, repeat from ** across, turn
Row 3: ch 1, sc in first sc, ch 5, dc in fifth ch from hook, sc in next ch 5 loop, ** (dc, ch 5, dc) all in next sc, sc in next ch 5 loop, repeat across. After working sc in last ch 5 loop at end, work (dc, ch 2, dc) all in last sc of row 2. Fasten off, weave in ends.

Easy peasy?  Yes.  Just a bit time consuming at first but once you get past row one it goes along quickly and it ends up looking like you spent days on it.  ;-)

Crochet Tutorial: Working The Cross Stitch Into Your Granny Square

 Tutorial For Using A Cross Stitch Pattern In Your Granny Square
Before beginning please read instructions all the way through.


For same instructions in a more printer friendly format, go HERE  (free PDF download)

The cross stitch works in sets of three stitches so your rows must be in multiples of three.  The sides of this square are 12 stitches across, counting the middle stitch in the corner group.
That is important for later.


Instructions for cross stitch: 
Skip two stitches, tr in next stitch, ch 1, tr in first skipped sc (skip 1 sc going to the right and tr in next stitch to the right)

Start by attaching the contrast yarn at any corner with a sl st. and ch 4 (counts as a dc + ch 1)
Work the cross stitch across the side to the end.
**Ch 1, dc in corner st (last worked st), ch 1, dc in same st, ch 1, work cross stitches across side of square to end, repeating from ** around until you reach last corner.  After making last cross stitch on last side of square, dc, ch 1, sl st into third ch of beg ch.  If using contrast yarn, fasten off, weave in ends.

Attach contrast with a sc in ch 1 of cross stitch. (If not using contrast, ch 1, sc in next st)  Sc in each tr , dc, and ch 1 spaces across all sides in all corners as well.  Fasten off, weave in ends.










The photo below shows what the corner group looks like when finished.

You can make a more defined corner, of course, if you add two sc to the corner st of the square, which I did not do because I didn't think of it till I saw this photo and noticed how round the corners were.  I would put the two extra sc in the first dc of that corner.

The cross stitch makes a great border for a granny square or a wash cloth or dish rag.  If you're more talented than I you can probably add granny square rows following the cross stitch rows.

Crochet News: Snowflakes In The Works

 I found a beautiful snowflake pattern, well, actually two very similar patterns for snowflakes, in an old Crochet World magazine (12-2008 issue).  Since Christmas is coming faster than I am ever ready for, I decided to start my Christmas crocheting for decorations and gifts.

I haven't starched this yet, I'll wait till I have three or four snowflakes and do them all at once.  I just hate cleaning up anything at all so starching each one as I go along is something I wouldn't even consider.  heh, heh. 

The original pattern (which you may be able to get in the Dec. 2008 issue of Crochet World at your local public library, I'm thinking) did not call for beads but I am a lover of crystals and added them on my own:
Before I started this snowflake I counted the picots around the perimeter of the flake and noticing the group of three and then the single picot in between the 3-picots groups, I strung the crystals as follows:
(One tear drop, three small diamond shaped) six times.  I added the crystals to my stitches in the third ch of each picot so it would come out at the tip of each picot.
It'll be interesting to see if the starch I use will hold the crystals up properly.  I'll let you know about that after I block and starch it.

Sorry to bring up Christmas so soon, I can't help but wonder what everyone is making for gifts this year?  I have so many people to make gifts for I'd better get on the ball!

O,T. Easy Recipe For No-Bake Peanut Butter Cookies

This has got to  be the easiest, quickest cookie recipe on the face of the earth.  Another plus is that in this hot weather we're all having, you don't have to heat up the house by using an oven to cook these cookies!  Here ya go:

Recipe:  No Bake Peanut Butter Cookies


In a heavy sauce pan, mix:
1/2 cup milk
2 C sugar
Cook on high heat, stirring constantly, until mixture comes to boil.  Boil for one minute, stirring constantly.  Remove from heat.  (that's all the cooking you will have to do)


Add:
1 Tbsp vanilla
1 C peanut butter (I used creamy but chunky would be great too)
3 C quick cook oatmeal

Mix together well.
Roll into 1 " balls or you can drop by the teaspoonful onto waxed paper or parchment paper.
It only takes one cookie sheet as you can place the cookies close to each other, they will not be spreading at all.

My daughter likes them best when they're still warm.  When cool they have a fudgy quality that is very good - and somewhat good for you too.  ;-)

For The Love Of FBBs!

F.B.B. = Fat Bottom Bag
This is a lined, purple FBB #2, with a few add ons that I'll explain below...

 

I just finished this FBB and I'm very happy with it, so much so that I decided I'll keep this one for myself.  I think I've made about twenty FBBs in all and have given away most of them, gladly so.  There's a few technical flaws I made when making this purple bag so I wouldn't feel exactly okay about giving it to someone anymore than I would give someone a dead plant for the birthday.  It's just not right, and could be considered downright mean.  heh, heh.  

Starting with the pattern which is found in the book called Stitch N Bitch Crochet; The Happy Hooker, I improvised a little bit because I had the yarn and hook but not the pattern so I was making it from memory and probably made a few or more mistakes.  

I purchased this embellishment at Joann's Yarn & Craft Store for a few bucks and thought I would also use the beads that came with the big purple shell heart but forgot about them and made the round buttons you see on each side with yarn.

I lined the bag (check out THIS LINK for a photo tutorial for lining the FBB, or see a few tips and photos about lining a FBB by me HERE.  One of the technical flaws in this bag are the way I stitched the lining.  There are ways to make the stitching look neater and less visible but I was too lazy to get up and look for different  thread and take out the entire side I stitched already.

For the cell phone/ID pocket (in photo above) I crocheted two rectangle pieces and slip stitched them together.   I used a bead that came with the large heart (outside bag) for a closure.


The handles I purchased were only $4.99 at Joann's and of the light, bamboo type wood and did not go very well with the silky, dressy looking lining and the outer embellishment.  Having already sewn the handles into the handle flaps when I decided this, I was trying to think of a way to make the handles match the style of the bag better. 
I am pretty proud of myself for thinking of using single crochets all around the handles, as many single crochets as I could squeeze onto the handles so no wood would show underneath.  Changing the handles in this manner made the whole bag come together nicely.  I am thinking of using a spot of glue here and there to anchor the yarn to the handle so it doesn't twist about but changed my mind when I realized the glue would just pull on the yarn and look funky.   =)   I made the photo below extra large in hopes you'd be able to see how the sc looks when worked onto a handle.  For a photo lesson about single crocheting onto a ring or bar, check out an earring pattern I posted HERE.  The tutorial for doing this is at the bottom of the Dangly Earrings post. 

If you have any questions please feel free to ask in the comments below, I'll do my best to answer you in a short time but keep in mind I have mental disorder issues and I am taking care of my mother who is seemingly worse every day.  Thank you for being patient and understanding while waiting for my replies.


signing off at a surprisingly reasonable hour of the night,
cynthia
p.s. Please check back soon, I'm working on designing bikini tops and bottoms for a company I am trying to get going and will post photos of my creations and possibly have a vote from my readers as to which one would be most desirable if you were to buy and wear one. 

Crochet Pattern - Sunny Snowflake

For ease in printing this pattern or others I've posted,  or elsewhere on the web, here's a comment Viola left on one of my patterns that may help you:

"...As for the printing, if you do a "print preview" first, you can select only the pattern pages. I just tried it and the print is small, but nothing in the pattern was cut off...."
(signed),
Viola's Hook
----
Thank you Viola!
-----


Sunny Snowflake Ornament


Small amount size 10 crochet thread (Aunt Lydia's or other)
Size 10 steel crochet hook,
Size 7 steel crochet hook
Small beads, optional


I already had some beads on my thread and used what I had (6 beads) for this project, kind of by accident.  Beads are optional, you can place them anywhere you like while working along to give your sunny snowflake some shine.




String desired number of beads before beginning work.


With size 10 hook, ch 2


Round 1:  (sc, ch1) inside second chain from hook 6 times.  Join with sl st to first sc.  (total 6 sc, 6 ch1)

Round 2:  ch 4, dc in first st, *ch 1, dc in next st; repeat from * around, ending round with ch 1, sl st into third ch of beg ch 4 (top of ch dc)

Round 3:  ch 6. * tr in next ch 1 space, ch 3, repeat from * around, ending with tr in last ch 1 space, ch 3, sl st into third ch of beg ch 6 to join

Round 4: ch 1, * sc, hdc, sc in first ch 3 space and in each ch 3 space around, join with sl st to first sc this round.

Round 5: Use size 7 hook for this round! sl st to first hdc;  *sc in hdc, ch 3,   tr in next st, ch 3, skip 1 st,  sc in next, ch 3; repeat from * around and join with sl st to first sc and fasten off.

Weave in ends, block and starch as desired, attach red or white ribbon and hang!
In case you didn't click the previous link "starch as desired", it is a link that will take you to Crafters Love Crafts site page that tells several different ways to stiffen your crochet projects including instructions for using liquid starch or fabric glue (recommended), spray starch, sugar (low recommend), salt, etc.

Beaded Pineapple Crochet Earrings Pattern

I used different lighting for this photo in an attempt to get the beading to show up better.  I am not entirely sure it does but it gives you a slightly different perspective on them.









Note:
For ease in printing this pattern or others I've posted,  or elsewhere on the web, here's a comment Viola left on one of my patterns that may help you:

"...As for the printing, if you do a "print preview" first, you can select only the pattern pages. I just tried it and the print is small, but nothing in the pattern was cut off...."
(signed),
Viola's Hook
----
Thank you Viola!



Beaded Pineapple Crochet Earrings Free Pattern
copyright Aug. 2010 by Cynthia aka anitalite

Materials
size 10 crochet thread
size 10 steel crochet hook
40 small glass beads the thread is willing to string through. (optional)
2 post earrings or 2 earring hooks for dangle

Special Instructions:
Bead tr:  work tr as follows:  YO twice, insert hook into st, YO, draw through two loops on hook twice, slide bead up and work into very last YO before drawing through last two loops on hook.

Bead sc :  slide a bead up and add to your stich during the YO after inserting your hook

Bead ch:  slide a bead up and add to your stitch during the YO of the chain

Pull beaded stitches tight so beads will stay in place and not travel.

Gauge: 
Gauge for this pattern not very important but keeping tension "firm" or slightly tight will keep the stitches neat and uniform.  A loose gauge is okay too, the earrings appear even more lacy.  Have fun, experiment to get the look you desire.

Begin by stringing 40 glass beads onto crochet thread.
(You'll only need 19 for each earring but I always add an extra or two, just to be safe.)

ch 5, dc in fifth chain from hook to form ring.

Row 1:  ch 4, sliding bead up and work into 4th ch; (counts as 1 bead tr)  bead tr X 6  (total 7 bead tr)

Row 2: ch 4, (counts as dc + 1 ch)  (dc in next  bead tr, ch 1) across, dc in top of ch 4 from previous row.

Row 3: turn, ch 3, skip first ch 1 space, (bead sc in next ch 1 space, ch 3) X 6

Row 4: turn, sl st in first ch 3 space, ch 1, sc in same space; (ch 3, sc in next ch 3 space) across

Row 5: turn, sl st in first ch 3 space, ch 1, bead sc in same space, (ch 3, bead sc in next ch 3 space)  X 4

Row 6: turn, sl st in first ch 3 space, ch 1, sc in same space; (ch 3, sc in next ch 3 space) X 3

Row 7:  turn, sl st in first ch 3 space, ch 1, bead sc in same space, (ch 3, bead sc in next ch 3 space) X 2

Row 8:  turn,  sl st in first ch 3 space, ch 1, sc in same space; ch 3, sc in last ch 3 space

Row  9: turn, sl st in ch 3 space, bead ch 1, sc in same space;
Fasten off, weave in ends.

Repeat from beginning (following the stringing of beads)
to make your pair of earrings complete.

Attach hooks or posts to beg ring.  Shape and starch to hold shape as necessary.  I used a fine mist of spray starch on these and a flat iron on low to set the starch and hold the stitches in place.  You can learn about other ways to stiffen your crochet thread projects at Crafters Love Crafts site.


If you have any questions please contact me here
and / or leave me a comment below

Please remember :  It is okay to share this pattern using a link to THIS PAGE.  You may also sell the work you make from this pattern.  You MAY NOT sell this pattern or copy it for profit by any means.